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Our experts are all specialists in matters directly involved with older properties. So, if you have a problem with an older building - or if you think you might have a problem - ask an Agony Uncle...
SUBJECT: Do
our external exposed beams need to be treated Dawn Long The question of whether you need permission depends upon whether the appearance of the building in terms of coloured paint, etc is regarded as part of the character of the building and therefore changing this will alter the character. If Conservation Officer believes that it does alter the character you will need to get consent. I suggest you speak to the local conservation officer in the first instance. In many areas stripping paint from external beams would be regarded as a positive move and may not require consent. However, if you are in an area up where the tradition is for black beams you may find it more difficult to get permission. How you deal with the beams once stripped depends upon the nature of the wood. I would assume that the frame is Oak, but other timbers could have been used. If the timbers are Oak then quite often they need no protective treatment, although some would say to coat them with linseed oil is beneficial. You do not say how the panels between the beams are finished. An increasingly popular approach is to limewash the panels and continue to limewash over the beams as well. This has been very successfully used in East Anglia and the south-east generally. It has the advantage of ensuring that the junctions between the panels and the beams are filled with limewash, which provides a sympathetic and suitable finish to such junctions. However, you will need to liaise with your Conservation Officer regarding these matters. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Inappropriate
materials lead to continued damp The problem is that I assumed the plasterer knew about older buildings, and so he used a normal gypsum based plaster for the walls. Beneath the plaster, I applied a pva mix to seal the wall, and again over the finishing coat of plaster. I have painted the walls with standard Dulux emulsion, and soon after, the dreaded white effervescent salt deposits have begun to appear in a small area of the wall, pealing the paint away. Do you think I will have to hack off the 'old' plaster to a height of 1m and use a different plaster to treat this, or do you think that over time the salts will clear up? I am not 100% sure whether the slate course has been compromised, but have ensured that the ground level has been rectified. There remain some small cracks in the render, which I am aware could be a source of possible ingress for water, but we were planning on extending the property soon, so the gable wall will become an internal wall. I realise there are a lot of questions, but would appreciate your help. I am reluctant to call a company to test the wall for damp with meters as I am aware of their inaccuracies at times Chris Burrows I suspect that the cottage was built without a physical damp proof course and red brick construction in Essex generally means a relatively soft brick. Without wishing to seem rather harsh, virtually everything done to the building so far is probably inappropriate and incorrect. The building would have functioned for most of its life quite satisfactorily by way of moisture management. The approach taken with modern materials is to attempt to exclude moisture. The two principles are usually incompatible. When applying modern principles to old buildings they generally don't work and the result is that dampness often becomes trapped. I would refer you to other answers on this site and to the discussion forum. However, generally I suggest that you consider lowering ground levels, ensuring any sub-floor voids are well ventilated, removal of all impermeable materials including dense cement renders, Gypsum based plasters, etc. Modern paints should also be removed. Once these works have been undertaken the building should start to dry out. Once it seems to have dried sufficiently you should brush away (with a dry brush) the salt deposits that may have accumulated. Any repointing or other such finishing works externally should be undertaken with a lime mortar and this includes all renders. Rather than modern masonry paint a limewash could be used if you need to paint the brickwork externally. Internally traditional lime plasters should be used together with lime-wash or perhaps an appropriate distemper. At present I would strongly recommend leaving the damp-proof course and simply ensuring that the ground level is at least 150 mm below it. As a short-term measure you could simply fill cracks in the render to prevent unnecessary water ingress but in the longer term removal of the dense render and replacing it with a traditional lime render is recommended. Of course, if an external wall is to become an internal wall there may be no need for undertaking any particular work. Nevertheless, the principle of breathability should be adhered to. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Does
my friend really need to have her thatched roof sprayed in a fire retardant for it to
be insured Jo Hewitt My first suggestion is that your friend to should find an insurance
company that understands and specialises in the insurance of thatched buildings. Although
some thatched buildings have been sprayed externally and there are some imported materials
that can be sprayed on the thatch, there is a question over their effectiveness. I am
not convinced about their long-term performance or their effect on the thatch. Perhaps
more importantly, if they reduce the natural ventilation through the thatch coat itself
it could lead to a more rapid degradation of the thatch. Most thatch fires emanate from
heat within the chimneys, sparks from the chimneys or generally chimney problems. Other
high risks are the electrics in the roof of the thatched building and soldered capillary
joint systems for plumbing in thatch roofs. By ensuring that the chimney is lined and/or
at least well pointed, etc reduces the risk of a fire significantly. By having the electrical
cable protected in conduit and having it checked regularly reduces another major source
of fire. By ensuring that there are compression joints for plumbing (that do not require
heat to fix them) will also reduce the risk of fire in a thatched roof. If there is access
to the roof voids any loose dusty dry material should be removed from the voids. With
an existing thatched roof it can be difficult, if not impossible, to retrospectively fully
fireproof the thatch. However, by taking these simple precautions it is possible to significantly
reduce the risks. If re-thatching in future involves complete stripping of the thatch
there are methods now used for new buildings which involve the creation of a fire barrier
over the roof structure, leaving a ventilated void and then thatching over the surface.
This separates the thatch from the rest of the building whilst retaining natural ventilation
through the thickness of the thatch. This is a very short and potted answer to what is
quite a complex problem. However, there are thatch insurance companies that should be
able to assist you. In the first instance I suggest that your friend turns to the insurance
services provided on this site or contact the Thatched
Owners Group Tel 01767 600 707 for further guidance. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Structural
problems require specialist advice Secondly can this type of work be carried out by me or do I need to employ a specialist firm. Ian Williams The first step should be to have the problem properly and fully assessed. This should be undertaken by a Structural Engineer who properly understands historic buildings and has experience dealing with them in a sympathetic manner. Unfortunately, most engineers are trained to deal with modern buildings. A relatively small number are truly experienced in dealing historic buildings. Of those I am aware of, The Morton Partnership or Cameron Taylor Bedford may be able to assist you but neither of them are particularly local to you. The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings www.spab.org.uk may have names of engineers in your area. The engineer would be able to assess why the movement occurred in the first place and whether it is an ongoing problem or something that is historic and can safely be ignored. If it is ongoing and remedial work is necessary the engineer will advise on the most appropriate solution. Underpinning is usually regarded only as a last resort partly due to its cost but also partly due to the fact that it is not always the most appropriate method of dealing with movement. Until the cause is known and the nature of the remedial work established, it is not appropriate to consider whether the work is something you could undertake. Even if underpinning is necessary it is not necessarily the case that a specialist company should be employed. Provided the work is fully specified a competent building contractor should be able to undertake the work satisfactorily. Alternatively, if you have the appropriate building skills you could also undertake the work if it is fully specified and the method explained in detail. However, if a non-specialist builder or you undertake the work there would be no guarantees available that could then be passed on to a future purchaser. The most important thing is to have the work assessed properly by a qualified engineer and for that engineer to then supervise and deal with the general management of the work on site. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Our
house is sprouting fungi Keith Munro Your description does not make identification easy, but it does seem likely that the fungus you describe is a wood rotting Fungus. It is possibly dry rot. The fact that it has appeared on the surface suggests a significant problem. You will need to have the area fully exposed to establish the extent of the problem. If a fungus is growing there must be a source of dampness that helps to sustain the growth. The cause of damp must be properly established and dealt with. If the dampness is not dealt with then no matter what other work is undertaken the fungus will probably return in due course. Your problem is in need of quite urgent attention and you need to seek independent advice from a professional experienced in dealing with historic buildings. In your region I would suggest that in the first instance you contact Hartley Conservation (based in Frome) or Philip Hughes (based not far from Wincanton). You should avoid advice from a company with a vested interest in the advice it gives. Present-day thinking suggests that most fungal growths can be dealt with by commonsense and general building works rather than expensive treatments. In any event, one needs to carefully identify the problem and extent of the rot to avoid unnecessary removal of sound timber. Most rots require very specific conditions in which to grow and if the environmental condition in the property is changed to remove the elements required to sustain the outbreak, the fungus should not return. However, it is imperative that you seek professional advice on these matters. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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SUBJECT: Frost
damaged bricks leads to potential problem in dealing with damp Alison David The information you provide it is insufficient to give any detailed advice. I would need to have more information on the precise nature of the bricks and the specific damage that you refer to. As a general rule, any chemical, liquid, etc pumped into brickwork under pressure could cause damage and could cause faces to fail. It is not necessarily the case that your house needs to be damp-proofed. There are many possible solutions if there is a serious problem of frost damage that involve protective finishes that still allow the building to breathe and function properly. Simply to cover the problem with modern impervious materials could simply result in a more serious long term defect because it traps moisture within the structure. You should seek advice from a professional or a specialist bricklayer or re-pointing expert in your district who can advise properly with regard to the problem affecting the bricks and what is required. Those advising you should be experienced in dealing with historic buildings. Period Property UK would like to thank Stephen Boniface Associates for answering this question. Stephen Boniface can be contacted on 01279 421 500 |
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