Advice Needed for Damp Issues and Cracked Concrete Path on Victorian Villa with Basement

[MegganMckenzie]

Hello,

I own a semi-detached Victorian villa with a basement, and I've been dealing with some persistent damp issues that I suspect may be related to a cracked concrete path along the side of the property. I'm hoping to get some advice on the best course of action to resolve these issues.

Current situation:

• The property has a basement that becomes damp during wetter months.
• I’ve noticed mold growth on the walls in the living room and bedroom.
• Along the side of the house, there is a concrete path that runs the length of the property. This path has several horizontal cracks.
• The plinth around the airbricks is crumbling in some areas, and I suspect this might be contributing to the basement dampness.
• I’ve installed trickle vents in the windows (which are always open for ventilation) and use a dehumidifier in the basement, but I’d like to address the root of the problem.

Additional details:

• My neighboring property is slightly elevated, causing rainwater to pool on my side of the path.

Questions:

1. Would it be best to remove the existing cracked concrete path? If so, at what level should the new path be set?
2. Should I install an ACO drain along the property side, along the fence line, or both?
3. What materials would be most effective for laying down a new path, considering I want to prevent further water pooling and damp problems?

I'd greatly appreciate any advice on the best way to tackle these issues, particularly from anyone who has dealt with similar problems in older properties with basements.

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[lizziecupcakes]

Hi there, i also have a concrete path and concrete “patio”. we bought the house 2 months ago now and it makes me so annoyed because it pools water too. I don’t know why people use concrete like this and in the spring, i aim to get rid of it. I also have a neighbouring property that’s slightly higher and pooling water onto our side.

Regarding your post, my understanding is that the new level should be about 1-2 bricks below your slate level or ventilation. This allows for water to drain away and prevents blocking the vents from airflow. I believe people on this forum will have much better experience than me though. I am yet to do this work myself.

I am also thinking of getting some kind of gutter system along the boundary with my neighbours to drive water away. The fence is like a picket fence and belongs to us so i am thinking about putting it under and along this and driving it towards the front street.

Just wondering what you plan to use for your new path? I have no idea but am thinking about a brick pattern. I think tiles might be slippery

 

[Eric56]

I had a similar problem.
Issue was water not really having anywhere to go during periods of heavy water.
Had a firm come and cut a channel around 15cms wide ish and fitted an "aco drain" which then has a cast iron grille running along the length of the passageway.

 

[Cubist]

To keep this as brief as possible;

1. The path is too high. Its surface should not be less than at least one and ideally two courses of brickwork lower.
2. The mortar plinth directly below the cables and to the surface of the path is badly damaged and appears too thin in some places AND the pointing between some of the bricks behind it has failed and has been lost.
   1. Standing water lying against the plinth will leach into the wall behind to appear internally.
3. The least cost course would be to excavate and remove the concrete to allow installation of a drainage system that carries all waste water away from the site and ideally to a communal drain. Eco drains, French drains and others can be used. It would be sensible too to remove the plinth and make all necessary repairs to the brickwork and pointing to inhibit future water penetration.
4. Removing the concrete path may be problematic. The orientation of the wooden fence boards suggest that it makes your neighbours boundary line and the fence therefore belongs to him/her. As the path seems to be supporting the fence you would be well advised to speak with your neighbour to understand their thoughts and positions regarding your plans.
5. If the path is seldom used then you might want to consider a gravel solution as this would help to improve through drainage and therefore further reduce the risk posed by puddling. It would also be easier to install a French drain which I think would be the least cost method.

The fence is like a picket fence and belongs to us so i am thinking about putting it under and along this and driving it towards the front street.

Sorry LCC, I don't think that's a good idea. Not least because I don't see how it could be implemented securely and also because its not wise to leave any woodwork with 'wet feet' - the woods grain structure provides a route for water to leech/wick higher up the boards to induce more rapid decay.

 

[lizziecupcakes]

To keep this as brief as possible;

1. The path is too high. Its surface should not be less than at least one and ideally two courses of brickwork lower.
2. The mortar plinth directly below the cables and to the surface of the path is badly damaged and appears too thin in some places AND the pointing between some of the bricks behind it has failed and has been lost.
   1. Standing water lying against the plinth will leach into the wall behind to appear internally.
3. The least cost course would be to excavate and remove the concrete to allow installation of a drainage system that carries all waste water away from the site and ideally to a communal drain. Eco drains, French drains and others can be used. It would be sensible too to remove the plinth and make all necessary repairs to the brickwork and pointing to inhibit future water penetration.
4. Removing the concrete path may be problematic. The orientation of the wooden fence boards suggest that it makes your neighbours boundary line and the fence therefore belongs to him/her. As the path seems to be supporting the fence you would be well advised to speak with your neighbour to understand their thoughts and positions regarding your plans.
5. If the path is seldom used then you might want to consider a gravel solution as this would help to improve through drainage and therefore further reduce the risk posed by puddling. It would also be easier to install a French drain which I think would be the least cost method.

Sorry LCC, I don't think that's a good idea. Not least because I don't see how it could be implemented securely and also because its not wise to leave any woodwork with 'wet feet' - the woods grain structure provides a route for water to leech/wick higher up the boards to induce more rapid decay.

Ah ok, thanks ! I’ll rethink this one and explore the options. I’ll post on here when j get to this part of the work