Encaustic tiles

[dandrew]

I have been offered some reclaimed geometric/encaustic tiles that were salvaged from a renovation project (I know, but they've been lifted now and it seems better to re-use them than skip them). Originally they were laid on a lime mortar base, but at some point have been relaid on a 10mm cement screed. So there is a sandwich of tile, cement and then lime when viewed in cross-section. Although the lime comes off fairly easily, the cement is resistant and test use of a bolster and hammer does not yield pretty results. Given that there must be a couple of thousand tiles to clean up it is unrealistic to try and chip off the cement by hand. Is there any other technique that could be used - someone suggest immersion in some sort of liquid (like stripping I guess) but hadn't any further details. Can anyone suggest anything ?

 

[Moo]

No idea, other than to learn to live with the cement.

But I hope that by bumping the question up to the top again, someone else will be able to solve your problem for you.

 

[piper]

If the top surface is OK, I suppose you could just accept the cement as part of the tile and lay them to allow for the extra thickness. I think I'm right in saying that you wouldn't have any "breathability" with encaustic tiles, cement or no cement, apart from what comes via your (lime) grouting - and with geometric tiles it's correct to have extremely narrow grouting or virtually no grout line at all. Otherwise, I think sulphuric acid dissolves cement.
However, try these people for advice http://www.originalfeatures.co.uk

 

[Nemesis]

the heritage industry.

Ouch - what a nasty phrase!

The tilesoc may also be able to help:


http://www.tilesoc.org.uk/

 

[Andrew Bodenham]

I'd think about mechanically removing the cement layer by cutting. You can hire masonry saw benches which are designed for cutting bricks and blocks - these have a diamond blade and are usually water-cooled, so give a very quick, clean cut in hard materials.
Your challenge would be to design a jig which would clamp the tile in a vertical orientation and hold it firmly whilst cutting through the tile/cement join. Once you'd perfected the jigging system it would be a relatively quick job to process the batch, with (hopefully) little wastage.
You could try an experiment with an angle grinder and a diamond cuttting disc to see if there's any mileage in the technique.

 

[inwood]

The best way to remove old lime and cement requires a big container, plenty of vinegar and a degree of patience.

I've been removing cement and lime from the back of the quarry tiles I plan to relay in my kitchen. Some of these have sizeable patches of cement on. Leaving them soaking in malt vinegar for about three weeks eats the cement meaning they can then be brushed clean in clean water. You do have to be patient though, check every week or so to see how they're doing.

I'd check the encaustic tiles aren't affected by the vinegar first - quarry tiles certainly aren't.

Vinegar is very cheap - about £1.90 for five litres from Costco but I'm sure if you buy in bulk you can get it cheaper.

If you have a couple of thousand I would guess a couple of old baths, several litres of vinegar and about four weeks soaking would see you well on your way to having completely clean tiles. Once they're clean just make sure you rinse well in water.

 

[Flyfisher]

Just a thought - what do you do with a couple of baths full of vinegar when finished with it - simply pull the plug? I'm sure it wouldn't do my septic tank much good all in one go, perhaps mains sewers wouldn't be affected.

 

[piper]

Just a thought - what do you do with a couple of baths full of vinegar when finished with it?

Sell it to a chip shop? Wouldn't taste much different from what they usually have :wink:

 

[Nemesis]

That stuff is non-brewed condiment. No relation to vinegar at all!

 

[alice]

I've never heard of vinegar softening cement... so you learn something new every day. I don't think it would harm a septic tank at all. We have a lot of lime in our water and use acids to clean all the time and have never had a problem.

alice

 

[alice]

I did a quick search and found this stuff. I wonder if it would work. If it'll take cement off car enamel without harming it, I imagine it would work on tile.

http://www.topoftheline.com/cement-concrete-remover-auto.html

alice

 

[Nemesis]

We have a lot of lime in our water and use acids to clean all the time and have never had a problem.

Citric acid is a component of many 'eco' loo cleaners. In fact, vinegar is, as Alice says, a useful cleaner by itself.

 

[Flyfisher]

I also doubt that a little citric, acetic or other mild acids would upset a septic tank, but I'm less sure about a couple of bath-fulls. It would certainly upset the prevailing pH somewhat.

 

[Nemesis]

We use a form of citric acid to clear the paths from algae.

 

[dandrew]

When you say vinegar, do you mean malt vinegar (the brown stuff) or the clear stuff, though I doubt it actually matters too much.

Many thanks for the replies.

David

 

[Nemesis]

The white stuff and the brown - if it's malt - are both similar products, look for 'malt' on the label.

Then there is cider, balsamic, wine... Non-brewed condiment is the tasteless stuff that chip shops use.

I have to say I have not heard of vinegar softening cement either, let us know how you get on.

 

[Cloudscape]

Non-brewed condiment is the tasteless stuff that chip shops use.

Except for the chippies who seem to use battery acid. :lol:

 

[Nemesis]

I always keep a small bottle of proper malt in the car!

(I love eating chips out of the paper...)

I add that malt is only suitable, IMHO, for chips and some pickles.

NOT for salad dressings. Nor for deglazing a pan for jus.

Gourmet, me.

 

[inwood]

I have to say I have not heard of vinegar softening cement either, let us know how you get on.

Trust me it does work but very slowly. Since the cement is so dense it takes a while (as I say weeks) for the vinegar to be absorbed into the cement. It's easy to see where it's worked as when you scrub an area with a wire brush the cement and sand breaks up easily. Where it hasn't penetrated yet the cement will still be dry.

It's also a darn site cheaper than the brick acid and much more forgiving on your hands and clothes although I would recommend long rubber gloves.

A good shower after also helps :wink:

 

[Cloudscape]

A good shower after also helps :wink:

Staying upwind of the baths of vinegar is probably adviseable too. :lol:

I used to pass a well-known vinegar factory every day on the train, and everyone used to brace themselves for the smell. :lol: