Lifting old large floorboards without damaging them

[montyjohn]

I never thought I would be asking such a basic question, but it appears to not be so basic on a period property.
I have a lot of plumbing and electrical work to do, and to start I'm wanting to lift a load of boards to work out where things are and make changes.

Boards are probably 250 years old, pine I think?
Vary in with, but typically 9" to 12". No T&G.

There are a few weak spots where heavens have cut, screwed and beaten them up so a few places are easy to get to without damage. I'm slightly grateful but disappointed at the same time.

But in other area, where I've found an entry point, where I can pry, but if I keep prying it's a 50/50 chance whether the nails pop out, or the board breaks.

I only have a few basic crowbars at the moment, are there any magical tools that make this job easier?
Screwfix sell somehting called a Roughneck pallet buster that sits on a jiost to life an adjacent board, but it looks a bit weedy.
Roughneck Pallet Buster Demolition Bar 43"

The boards are too thick to drive the nails through without damage I suspect, but I was wondering if it's feasible to somehow drill the top of the nail off, but one slip and I've made a nice hole.

Hammering hard on nails is also a concern as I suspect I will lose some ceiling plaster if I do this.

If there's no silver bullet I will just have to keep going with an many crowbars as possible to hopefully spread the load, but seems a bit iffy.

 

[Cubist]

A Catspaw is one of the best tools albeit that different names are used for the same tool. See the link below. They are used to hammer a divot around the the nail heads to then allow access for the claw to lever the nail out.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dwht0-55524-claw-bar-10-/156KY?tc=AT5&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22599670533&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPxGVCDeLUwjbwW4B_Q8ZZWbX&gclid=CjwKCAiAuIDJBhBoEiwAxhgyFtVlraID87SENIqpVnGViGlfvPp_-paQYoO2d1iUuxTc_N0MmmRiVhoClhoQAvD_BwE

 

[Zebra]

I used to use a small piece of steel angle (it was actually part of an old light fitting, there's no tool for this) placed on the edge of the adjacent board to lever against. Then just go slow. It's not about tools in my opinion. You can use any old chisel. It's about technique - going slowly and carefully, trying different areas to see where you can get it to give a bit.

 

[montyjohn]

I used to use a small piece of steel angle (it was actually part of an old light fitting, there's no tool for this) placed on the edge of the adjacent board to lever against. Then just go slow. It's not about tools in my opinion. You can use any old chisel. It's about technique - going slowly and carefully, trying different areas to see where you can get it to give a bit.

I guess even just some flat bar on the adjacent board could help.
I assume you're placing the angle iron down the gap. This could work well on some of mine, but others are a pretty tight fit. But will give this a try.

 

[montyjohn]

A Catspaw is one of the best tools albeit that different names are used for the same tool. See the link below. They are used to hammer a divot around the the nail heads to then allow access for the claw to lever the nail out.

If I get desperate this can be my backup plan. I'm not ready to punch indents into the boards yet. Still too precious about them. Honeymoon period and all that.

 

[Kearn]

Carpenters blue bar. But do not take them up for the sake of it. You will do damage, regardless of care. You won’t get them back down as well, and you will need to screw them, countersink a hole and plug for aesthetics.