New flooring - what to do with skirtings?

[Tontomax]

Happy new year all.

New to posting on this forum, but have been reading threads for a bit of time now.

I recently purchased a Victorian property, early 1900s in Scotland.

I'm looking to replace the flooring in the living room and dining room. They're both currently carpeted on top of the original suspended timber floorboards. I bought some nice herringbone, tongue-and-groove engineered wood which is waiting to be fitted, pending decision from myself on what to with regards to the skirtings. They're 15mm thick, for reference with the below.

Ideally, the skirtings would come off, then refitted once the flooring is put down. However, I'm pretty sceptical that there wouldn't be a good bit of damage; I could get around the possible plaster damage ok, but having the skirtings break/snap when getting taken off would be a nightmare. These skirtings run throughout the house, and so I'm assuming they're original (and old/brittle).

Has anyone here done similar or have any input what you reckon would be best? I think the options are:

1) Remove the skirtings, get the flooring down, then refit the skirtings. (Risking possible damage to the walls/skirtings breaking).
2) Multi-tool (cut) a section at the bottom of the skirting, and insert the flooring underneath (I'm wanting a border created all the way around the room with the flooring I've bought, if that makes it easier for whoever fits it, or if it's even possible doing it this way with T&G - some joiners have said it's difficult getting a good finish this way).
3) Put the floor down with a bead. This way I'd sleep most easily vs potentially destroying the original skirtings in 1) and 2), however the finished look might not be the best. I'd plan on making the bead white to match the skirting, though haven't decided if scotia or a quadrant style bead would be best.

I've uploaded a video of the living room here showing the skirtings: https://streamable.com/ek34xs

Does anyone have any advice/tips they could offer? I've reached out to a good few joiners about this, though I'm getting different answers. Hoping for a more impartial view on here!

Really appreciate any input.

 

[Cubist]

First - DO NOT under any circumstances use a multi-tool cutter to excise any unwanted timber from the foot of those skirtings.

• You have to assume there are electrical and other cables that rise behind the skirting boards and a little nick to the insulation could start a fire. AND, almost unconditionally you would make a dreadful mess of the foot of the skirting because its too easy for the blade of a multi-tool to wander AND you may encounter spots along the walls where the height varies due to bows/dips in the old flooring.

Second - DO NOT attempt to remove the skirting's to then re-site them above the new additional flooring material.

• You would have to reduce the height of the skirting using either a handsaw or a circular saw to make them fit into the reduced height of the opening UNLESS you increased the height at which the architraves and any other mouldings start. There are also other obstructions such as the CH pipework that would have to be navigated.

Your best and safest approach would be either the beading you are considerings or an outer perimeter border of the same material and thickness as the new flooring.

Either way, do you have access to a compound mitre-saw and conversant with the use of same?

Also, you need to keep in mind that no wall is perfectly straight, no corner is ever a true right angle and you have to be careful when planning the boarding layout to take into account where door frames and similar such as fireplace hearths will appear within that layout - too often failures to consider such elements can lead to a need for unsightly joints and, on occasion difficult/impossible to recover challenges.

 

[fernicarry]

You can get specialised machines like a circular saw on its side for taking a chase out the bottom of the skirting. I imagine a professional fitter would have one of those. But I think first I'd be wanting to relocate those electrical sockets higher up on the wall. Sockets as low as that don't really work for many of the things we plug in nowadays. And that radiator on the side aspect is really crammed into the opening, that could do with a bit of a rethink whilst you have the opportunity.

I've had some success in removing skirtings intact but you have to be extremely careful. A trades-person will not exercise the required level of care and will most likely decline anyway if asked. That said I've only taken skirtings off of plaster walls. I really wouldn't fancy trying to remove them from the panelled window recesses (but you might be able to do a bit of exploration through the opening for the socket to figure out how it goes together).

Option 3) would obviously be the least intrusive and you or a future owner could go back to how it is now without having to alter the joinery again. Not the most attractive to look at though. Or you could expose your existing floorboards, plenty written on here on that subject. Less exciting than herringbone but with a nice rug in the middle of the floor you won't see much of it anyway.

 

[malcolm]

Skirtings look very deep. My guess is they are conduits for electrical wiring. You'll probably need to pull them off before you can fit taller flooring. They will be modern but whether they are a system or made by someone is anyone's guess. If they are wood they might be custom made from a standard skirting and spacer. Also if they are modern they are unlikely to come off without breaking.

 

[Cubist]

@fernicarry reminds me that I forgot to ask about the new engineered floorboards. Is it safe to assume that these are a plywood base to which a hardwood veneer has been glued to form what appears to be a regular plank with all edges machined to provide tongue and groove joints? And, are all the planks of either a single standard length a range of standard lengths?

Regardless, very careful planning of the layout of the boards within the room will be essential to ensure that you do not find yourself either having to cut and fit very small pieces to fit the closures to the likes of fireplace hearths, room corners and perimeter walls. The herringbone pattern of the planks can also throw up some interesting challenges during the installation of the last rows beside the wall at which you will finish laying the planks - its best to start from the most complex side of the room and head toward the longest straight wall available. Its never a good idea to finish laying the floor within any focal points in the room - far better to start from there and get those sections right.

 

[Tontomax]

Really appreciated all the replies/input!

@Cubist Think that might indeed be the way to go. Certainly the safest with the bead.

Regarding the flooring itself, I won't be doing it myself - I'd almost definitely mess it up! I've been asking different joiners to do it and what way to go about the skirting - of which some said remove and refit the skirting, some said multi-tool the bottom and cut a section out to slide the floor underneath, and some said put a bead. Probably in equal amounts, and I've asked a good few! Part of the reason for seeking opinion on here is to look for a more impartial view. Either way, the bead option is the safest and I'd probably kick myself more should any of the skirting break.


@fernicarry Found some pretty impressive-looking machines that seem to do a very clean cut. Think option 3 it is, though. A few other houses (of similar layout/type) in the street have brought their original floorboards up really nicely. I've had a bit of a thing for herringbone though, so I'm hoping it turns out as good as I think (hope) it will. By the way, "A trades-person will not exercise the required level of care" - completely agreed.

Regarding the sockets being too low - annoyingly a regular theme around the house. Most are built into the skirtings. I've thought of perhaps flipping the faceplate around on them (not sure if this would trigger me after a while) or just using a cube adapter, which might also trigger me after a while! Either way, easy workaround and not labour intensive.

Interesting thoughts about the radiator - I actually haven't considered it, though maybe I will now. I'd consider adding a radiator on the back wall where the door is.


@malcolm Appreciate the input.