Reclaimed brass tap refurb

[HH @ 24]

Hi All,

I have a 3 sets of matching old brass taps that I'm trying to refurb and take the best components from each to make 2 good sets.

I have got some of them apart per photo 1 but can't seem to get the inner part out of the top part of tap, nor the cross head and indices off. I've removed the only screw I could see from just under the cross head (photo 2).

One of them, I can't unscrew the top cover (photo 3)and one I can't unscrew the nut under the top cover (photo 4). I have them soaking in WD40 but it's not helping much.

Any advice gratefully received.

Thanks!

 

[Cubist]

Best I can suggest is that the valve body has seized due to the build up of limescale deposits. You could try soaking it in a bath of white vinegar for several days and then testing to see if you can get some movement of the valve stem - several attempts may be necessary. You'll need to be careful though as the outer brass body will not cope well with almost any tool you might use to grip it while trying to release the spindle.

 

[Stevers]

The tops will be a tight fit on a square shank. It's easier to get them off when they're all together and fitted in a basin! I give them a 'gentle' tap from underneath shielding them with something suitable from damage.

From where you are now, I have a wooden faced woodworking vice and I'd try clamping them in that perhaps with a bit of rubber sheet to give extra grip to then persuade them off with a bit of percussion. Improvisation is key here - I'm not aware of a 'correct' way, but then I'm not a plumber.

 

[mardinor]

Other ideas...proper penetrating oil (WD40 is not) and hot/cold shock (blowtorch, freezer)

 

[HH @ 24]

Other ideas...proper penetrating oil (WD40 is not) and hot/cold shock (blowtorch, freezer)

Which oil is proper penetrating oil?

 

[Stevers]

Which oil is proper penetrating oil?

Penetrating oil is sold as that, but I've always been able to just tap the crosshead off.

WD40 useless at so many things! It did work as a 'permanent' fix for seized plastic vent knobs (1968 Fraud Cortina) and a faulty window lifter switch (1997 Pug 306). Generally I use it routinely for car door locks, as an electric switch lubricant and to lubricate the slide catches on water butt lids. Because I'm cheap it also seems to work OK as a cutting lubricant.

 

[a twig]

I tend to use RP-90 as a penetrant, Kroil is probably the best I’ve used but ££

 

[paulc]

PlusGas is my go-to for penetrating oil.
When combined with a decent amount of heat from a blowtorch, it gets most things apart.

 

[a twig]

A plasma cutter also gets things apart but probably not in a way that can be put back together again

 

[Flyfisher]

I'd second @mardinor's suggestion of temperature and 'proper' penetrating oil. Also, gentle tapping with a small hammer can sometimes loosen seized things, presumably by breaking up the internal corrosion or limescale. Patience can also be important, especially when soaking items in a penetrant bath. It can take longer to fully pentrate than you might think.

 

[Lacan07]

I had a similar issue with some old bathroom taps. As others have stated the valve is designed to be a tight fit and scale will soon cause issues.

All you need do is give the tap a light rap with a hammer to break the seal of scale. It worked for me.