Renovating an old radiator?

[Lacan07]

Hello all

I need a radiator for my bathroom renovation and theres a chap local to me selling a rather lovely old cast iron column rad removed from a church.



I quite like the faded look but it got me thinking is it wise to repurpose these old radiators?

Has anyone else done this? i guess a good flushing would be in order, I'm a bit concerned any debris might damage my boiler.

Cheers. P

 

[88v8]

I installed two whole systems with such rads.

Look inside, it needs to be free of scale which it will be if it came from an indirect system.
If it's scaled, forget it. Even so, yes, give it a good wash out.

They need top brackets, like this. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352618147444?hash=item5219adee74:g:EJQAAOSwYuZci6T~

If you're putting it into a pumped system, they are usually piped bottom-both-ends, so you'll have to move the plugs. which may need a lot of heat to get them out.

It is possible to calculate the heat output if you are integrating it into a complete system, but for a tiddler like that - what is it, 30" high? - I'd just reckon about 2,000 bthu.

Ivor

 

[Lacan07]

I installed two whole systems with such rads.

Look inside, it needs to be free of scale which it will be if it came from an indirect system.
If it's scaled, forget it. Even so, yes, give it a good wash out.

They need top brackets, like this. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352618147444?hash=item5219adee74:g:EJQAAOSwYuZci6T~

If you're putting it into a pumped system, they are usually piped bottom-both-ends, so you'll have to move the plugs. which may need a lot of heat to get them out.

It is possible to calculate the heat output if you are integrating it into a complete system, but for a tiddler like that - what is it, 30" high? - I'd just reckon about 2,000 bthu.

Ivor

Hi Ivor

Thanks for the response, I'm no expert on old rads unfortunately.

First silly question, what exactly constitutes 'looking inside', I would imagine that wasn't really possible in the main? I've asked the seller if it came from an indirect system and awaiting response. And how does one go about removing the bottom plugs with heat?

I would expect the fittings aren't modern sizing either?

I don't think you're far off with 2000. The sellers heating engineer reckons its about 0.5 kW at 82 degrees C. My calculations reckon the heat loss of my mid size bathroom will be 459W, or about 1500 btu. It Measures 63cm high, 36cm wide and 12 cm deep.

 

[Lacan07]

 

[Cubist]

First silly question, what exactly constitutes 'looking inside', I would imagine that wasn't really possible in the main? I've asked the seller if it came from an indirect system and awaiting response. And how does one go about removing the bottom plugs with heat?

I would expect the fittings aren't modern sizing either?

Once the plugs are removed you should be able to see some of the interior and be able to scrape at any limescale deposits to gauge how thick it may be. You could use a cheap borescope to inspect a little further inside the radiator but frankly you would not learn much more. The radiator plugs can often be moved with a large adjustable spanner/wrench (not grips). Given the plugs may not have been removed for many years they could be seized in-situ. Play the flame of a gas blow-torch over the plug and the immediately adjacent radiator body for a few minutes to get the plug hot. Remove the heat source and pour a little cold water over the plug - the metal of the plug will contract (but not visibly) and will help to loosen the thread in the radiator body. Without waiting for further cooling use the wrench to loosen the plug for removal.

There are many adaptors available to to allow connection between old imperial standard fittings and modern metric equivalents.

Its a good idea to remove the plugs as doing so will help to flush out any sediment that may have built up inside the radiator alongside the limescale, some of which will have flaked off over the life of the radiator, and could lead to blockages and poor performance.

Limescale can be removed with white vinegar. Pour in a couple of pints, plug the various holes and rotate the radiator a few times to throughly coat the interior and leave for 24 hours. Repeat 24 hours for a 2-3 days and flush out with clean water into a bowl so that you can examine how much lime and other rubbish you've washed out.

 

[Lacan07]

Once the plugs are removed you should be able to see some of the interior and be able to scrape at any limescale deposits to gauge how thick it may be. You could use a cheap borescope to inspect a little further inside the radiator but frankly you would not learn much more. The radiator plugs can often be moved with a large adjustable spanner/wrench (not grips). Given the plugs may not have been removed for many years they could be seized in-situ. Play the flame of a gas blow-torch over the plug and the immediately adjacent radiator body for a few minutes to get the plug hot. Remove the heat source and pour a little cold water over the plug - the metal of the plug will contract (but not visibly) and will help to loosen the thread in the radiator body. Without waiting for further cooling use the wrench to loosen the plug for removal.

There are many adaptors available to to allow connection between old imperial standard fittings and modern metric equivalents.

Its a good idea to remove the plugs as doing so will help to flush out any sediment that may have built up inside the radiator alongside the limescale, some of which will have flaked off over the life of the radiator, and could lead to blockages and poor performance.

Limescale can be removed with white vinegar. Pour in a couple of pints, plug the various holes and rotate the radiator a few times to throughly coat the interior and leave for 24 hours. Repeat 24 hours for a 2-3 days and flush out with clean water into a bowl so that you can examine how much lime and other rubbish you've washed out.

Thanks Cubist

 

[CliffordPope]

I don't think I'd bother with trying too hard to get the plugs out. The amount of scale you could actually reach to scrape out would still be minimal. The heat will be mostly transfered from the vertical fins, and no amount of dismantling will give access to them.

I'd flush out with caustic soda and hot water. Seal the bottom plug, fill to the brim, and leave for 24 hours. Anything that that doesn't loosen isn't going to do anything in ordinary use.

 

[Lacan07]

I don't think I'd bother with trying too hard to get the plugs out. The amount of scale you could actually reach to scrape out would still be minimal. The heat will be mostly transfered from the vertical fins, and no amount of dismantling will give access to them.

I'd flush out with caustic soda and hot water. Seal the bottom plug, fill to the brim, and leave for 24 hours. Anything that that doesn't loosen isn't going to do anything in ordinary use.

Thanks Clifford.

Might be a bit ugly running pipe down from the top plug, or to look at it another way might make the plumbing simpler.

 

[CliffordPope]

Or looking at it another way, old plumbing components have a beauty of their own, and exposed pipework and chunky valves are part of the charm.

 

[Peakdistrict]

I put these in our last house, 10 of them in varying sizes. I did all the work on them myself except having them shotblasted by a guy we used at work. In all fairness though, by the time I drove to where ever to buy them, replaced the old fittings, which proved challenging on a few, even with an engineering workshop full of tools, pressure tested each one, bought paint and sprayed them, took them home and fitted them including new valves - it would have been cheaper to buy reconditioned ones from one of the many companies out there. At least you then get a warranty.

 

[BlindPete]

A plumber I know told me about a job he worked on. The rads were all refurbished cast iron along side two huge boilers. They warned the client about the risks of using the radiators. A short while later, the boilers stopped working. Both heat exchangers were broken. Full of metal and sludge. Magnetic filters clogged too. Warranty’s void.
New boilers fitted with bigger magnetic filters. More disclaimer papers signed.

 

[a twig]

Depending on the exact time period of your plumber mate’s “short while later” would raise questions to me about how effectively they flushed the system when doing the install to be honest

But yes, to your point there is always an element of how much do you trust a refurb

 

[Lacan07]

Thanks for all the comments guys, for what its worth I've decided I'm probably going to abandon the idea and just go for standard new radiators throughout the house. I don't necessarily mind the look and at least it will be consistent from room to room. With the amount of time this is taking me and all the other hassles and headaches involved with plumbing the bathroom, etc I probably shouldn't be messing about descaling old radiators and sourcing fittings.