Stripping floorboards with multiple finishes

[Mrs McG]

I’d planned to sand the floorboards in the main bedroom when the weather improves but I need to strip a section of it quite soon because I’m having new heating installed, including a floor-standing column radiator in the bedroom, and I don’t want this mounted over the awful grey paint that’s currently on most of the floorboards. The photo shows what was underneath fitted wardrobes which have been removed, some sections are plain wood, others have been varnished and most of it painted with what looks like modern floor paint (in no less than two different colours!).

Before I pick up a sander I wanted to ask for any advice about stripping floors, including what to finish them with when they’re done. I was thinking of either wax or linseed oil? The boards are of varying width from 6” to 12” but I believe they are all pine (like the landing you can see in the photo).

 

[a twig]

If you search for Toby Newell’s posts and guides on here you will find reams of expert advice on such matters

 

[Mrs McG]

Thanks, I’ve been to Toby’s website and found the wealth of information a little bewildering but that may be my evening glass of wine! I’ve bookmarked it for reading more closely tomorrow

 

[Lacan07]

Thanks, I’ve been to Toby’s website and found the wealth of information a little bewildering but that may be my evening glass of wine! I’ve bookmarked it for reading more closely tomorrow

Yes, Toby is a bit of perfectionist so there's a lot to take in. He posts on here occasionally but as far as he's concerned everything you need to know is on his website. I'll be diving in when I get round to doing my floors and I'll probably follow his instructions pretty much to the letter. I'm going for a wax finish because its breathable and it can be 'spot' repaired. If you chose to finish with varnish just be aware if it fails or wears in high traffic areas you'll need to completely re-strip the floor and start again.

The other thing to bear in mind is the difference in approaches to hard and soft wood. People tend to go for a flawless finish with hard wood because its possible. You can't do this so much with soft wood, you'll always see the 'history' in the finish so the approach is less pressured.

 

[Toby Newell]

I’d planned to sand the floorboards in the main bedroom when the weather improves but I need to strip a section of it quite soon because I’m having new heating installed, including a floor-standing column radiator in the bedroom, and I don’t want this mounted over the awful grey paint that’s currently on most of the floorboards. The photo shows what was underneath fitted wardrobes which have been removed, some sections are plain wood, others have been varnished and most of it painted with what looks like modern floor paint (in no less than two different colours!).

Before I pick up a sander I wanted to ask for any advice about stripping floors, including what to finish them with when they’re done. I was thinking of either wax or linseed oil? The boards are of varying width from 6” to 12” but I believe they are all pine (like the landing you can see in the photo).

View attachment 10245

Sanding with a hand held sander is the hardest work but gentlest method.

Linseed oil is awful stuff, takes 4 days to dry, goes yellow, rots and not durable.

Wax is not a finish. It will sit on the surface, absorb dirt and moisture and go dull white and opaque.

Apply shellac, then wax on top. One to five coats of shellac, sand with P240 inbetween, leave for day or two then final sand with a fine sanding sponge then use a top quality wax like Mylands Traditional or Harrells Traditional beeswax and canauba, apply with 0000 wire wool and buff. Very hard work, will give a satin to semi gloss finish.

A hardwax oil is a cross between a traditional white spirit based poly varnish and an oil finish, no PU but different hardeners and siccatives, dries quicker, more durable, goes yellow but importantly comes in matt.

You can get matt shellacs from Jenkins but very expensive and more skill to apply.

Liberon do a hardwax oil that apparently is made with Tung oil and carnauba wax, I was going to try it for a client. I say apparently as Liberon are a zombie company run by morons, their website FAQs tips are almost all incorrect, they have no technical manager, their SDS sheets were out of date (I got them to change this week) their PR lady contacted France for me but they refused to give composition details.

So, are they liars like Osmo? How much tung oil is in there? 40% or 4%? who knows. To be fair, Osmo now lists their ingredients, which are low quality, but at least they are listed.

I might try the Liberon Hardwax oil for myself, I am hesitant because of the terrible technical advice, poor customer service and seemingly incorrect usage advice, they say to finish sand with P240 grit, which will close over the grain and reduce adhesion, normally P120 is the finest for a good oil finish.

I use Liberon oils for furniture and work tops, shame company is run by idiots. I will revert if I decide to give the hardwax oil a try, I never use oils on floors because of the high solvents, long drying time and poor durability. The Liberon hardwax oil apparently is water based and if it is mainly tung oil with carnauba wax, well then it would be the highest quality hardwax oil on the market. I am dubious because if it was why would they refuse to say so???

 

[Mrs McG]

Thank you so much Toby, a set of simple ‘do this’ instructions is exactly what I needed! I hand sanded the area under the radiator but had left them unfinished so I will follow your steps above.