Treatment for a pitch-pine door?

[Fidhw]

Most of the timber in my house is pitch pine, much of it imported by Penrhyn estate in the 1800’s. I’m way out of my comfort zone here, but I’m building a new front door out of recovered window frames, ceiling panelling and swear words… (pictures attached: it’s fitted dry at the moment). All 150yo pitch pine. Solid top, bottom and side timbers, panels are T&G together and into the side timbers. 1cm insulation boards between the two timber layers, making the whole thing 55mm thick. The decoration is Padauk (7mm inset into the surface of the panel). It’s wings and a tail for a dragon-head door knocker, before you ask.

So, what do I use to finish it? Exterior door. Exposed to everything Snowdonia can throw at 200m elevation and facing southwest. Rain, more rain, sun, wind, sometimes even snow. It’s a VERY heavy door, so taking it off to sand and varnish is not going to happen much! Waterproof, weatherproof, non peeling please, on pitchy pitch pine (which has been gumming up power tools for a month). Clear please - it’s a pretty door.

 

[Cubist]

If I had invested so much effort and creativity in the production of a door like that I would be considering encasing the whole thing in resin. A bit overkill perhaps and it would definitely increase the weight by maybe twofold. Fearing rainwater penetration into those joints, and particularly those around the dragon I would be using multiple coats of a thinned varnish to support its penetration into the joints - and starting at a high ratio and progressing ultimately to no thinning agent at all - and sanded between coats. I would applying liberal coats of same to all the outer edges after first installing and removing any hinges/furniture to cut off those water ingress routes too.

 

[Fidhw]

I can do that. Is it worth considering any other treatments for the edges/joins? Flood them with resin? It’s all dry-fitted at the moment, I’ll be assembling with cascamite once everything is ready to go in.
Any particular brand of varnish?

 

[Cubist]

I wasn't really being serious about using resin. Also, I have no favoured makers of varnishes and so would not recommend one here. Maybe other members will offer a suggestion or two. As far as the sides, head and foot of doors are concerned I would always treat these with thinned varnish - progressively as discussed above - to prevent water penetration as far as possible.

 

[Gothichome]

Another option you may want to consider is using a boiled linseed and turpentine. Mixed 50/50. Brush it on, give it as much as it will take. Let it dry and you should be good. It’s an old fashioned concoction but works. The down side is you may need to reapply as needed on a regular basis. The upside, it’s cheap! Won’t peel and easy to make.

 

[Stevers]

Some years ago I used boiled linseed oil and turps on the elm stairs down to my basement and that has worked well. My father used it on the boarded floor of his greengrocers shop. However there are some who will claim that only Tung Oil will do, and further that some Tung Oils are better than others.

 

[mardinor]

I'd suggest you try asking Marine forums. You want whatever works on wooden boats. Last time I looked Epifanes varnish was highly recommended, just (ironically) avoid anything called Yacht Varnish.

 

[malcolm]

I would use an oil rather than paint or varnish. You don't want anything waterproof on wood as it will stop the water that gets in the gaps from evaporating away.

UV light will cause the wood to go grey (and also crack over a timescale longer than doors and windows last these days) so some UV protection in the oil would protect the wood.