No search of a previous post by Buzz in the archives. Me thinks Buzz is Phil/Joiner. What is it with this vendetta anyway - you not paid your council tax Biff (joking!)?
I didn't know it was a prerequisite that this forum be used by registered users? perhaps it is a club? Whenever I use the site I use the first thing that comes into my head!
I have read the whole posting, sad I know, but its rather compulsive reading.
After reading the info kindly supplied FREE by a competent joiner, it beggars belief that the forum Gestapo seeks to ridicule this man.
And after checking 3 of our sash windows in our 1830 home, I can corroborate that Phil the joiner is correct.
A. It does have a part that is bevelled and fits into its (mother) housing.
B. They also have a screw at the bottom of the pocket.
In order to gain access to the pocket I had to remove the bead in the middle. I tried to remove the pocket but it seemed to be stuck fast, then I saw what was an indentation in the paint, covering... a screw!
Instead of barracking people who have given free information, may I suggest that the gestapo... PUT UP OR SHUT UP?
This thread is getting more ludicrous (and boring) by the hour. So Thunderbird1 (who is obviously Buzz/Phil/Joiner) would have us believe that he has investigated and removed beading from his sash windows (during his lunch hour?) just to verify a message on a forum - I think not. Maybe it is more serious than council tax arrears - maybe Biff has parked illegally somewhere.
If the pocket is being held in place by its bevel and the parting bead, the screw is superfluous in my opinion. If is of course quite possible that some joiners may have decided to put one there just in case.
When taking apart the original frame I was struck by how simply and economically it was made. The only screws used were to attach the pulley castings, and there was no sign of any glue. Everything was either wedged or nailed. The pine vertical members were held to the oak sill in a groove secured by a wedge, which was nailed in to prevent it slipping out. The thin, flexible piece of wood separating the weights was riven, rather than sawn pine, secured at the top by a through tenon secured by a small cut nail on the top side. Naturally, in the days before planing and thicknessing machines, the timber was only planed on the side that was visible - the unseen side being left rough.
Having got home I reexamined the original sash pocket, which I had kept. There is evidence of a nail hole in it. It may have been fastened after all (the nail was not there when I disassembled it).
That's pretty impressive, Nigel. I'd like to do mine just like that but they're oak and I need quite a few metres of the stuff. I should do it by hand, but I've had a cutter made so I can run it off in the machine.
The section pictured is actually a bolection mould, about half of the panels in a room have the original oak ones, the rest were replaced with stained softwood torus architrave.
I'm in for some criticism, maybe. Faking old mouldings by machine and junking historic (flower power period) softwood replacements.
I think you have done the right thing there. Something that complex, in hardwood, would be a nightmare to reproduce by hand.
For my bookcase, which has a 2 inch cyma recta cornice in oak, I made my own moulding plane, but it didnt work very well - too much chatter. I ended up having to spend lots of time with a scraper shaped to the same profile. The end result is a little irregular (characterful, I like to think).