Fencing costs

[JoceAndChris]

Anyone like to share any? Our contract binds us to get on with the fencing of the new 3 acres straight away.

I'd like this - I wonder how much it'd be. http://www.stonebank-ironcraft.co.uk/category.php?cat=10

Anyone ever had anything like this made?

 

[Tom]

I thought you said your contract stated a particluar type of fencing you had to use? Maybe I misunderstood, though :roll:

 

[FamilyWiggs]

2000th post alert! 8)

Joce - I imagine you could buy the rest of the land for what it would cost to enclose in welded metal railings! :shock:

DIY stock fencing comes in like this:

Strainers at the end of each straight run and at each direction change - about a fiver.
Posts every 6 feet - about 2 quid in bulk.
Decent stock wire - about 40 quid per 50m at present - may be cheaper if you shop around.
50cc post-hole borer about £130, or hire by the day. We bought in the end.
Post slammer - 30 quid.
Cleats - buttons
Fencing pliers (a marvelous tool) about £15.

It's the most physically demanding thing I have ever ever done - but immensely satisfying. It is not difficult technically.

If you get chaps in to do it, then you'll be able to get a price per 100m. You can compare it to the above and see how much they're adding on for labour, etc.

Hope this is helpful.

 

[TomW]

Those railings are never wrought iron. They would be standard steel bar. No-one makes wrought iron on a commercial scale, only for specialist use. You will probably find a local metal shop that would make them to your design. Still cost a fortune though

 

[JoceAndChris]

I've got a price now for my castle fencing: http://www.butterfieldsforge.co.uk/estate_fencing.html - and Tom, you're right about the material.

8k, as a minimum. Would it last longer than the fencing FW is talking about? (and Robin, yes, that's very helpful. Sam is paying 3k for a couple of guys to do his so I'll compare how that works out - there's no way it could be a DIY job though as I can't see me doing it and Chris has no time - well done you though - sounds a complete b*gger!)

DWB - you're right they did specify the stock fencing, but I'm hoping I might be able to give them a ring and renegotiate this if I can argue that this one is better.

 

[Flyfisher]

Joce, I'd love to have lots of that estate fencing around our place, but as you've discovered, it's pretty expensive. Post-and-rail is, I think, a good looking alternative. We have some old post-and-rail fencing that must be at least 30 years old and the posts are still very solid, although I'd expect the metal estate fencing to last longer. But if you'd be the type who didn't like to see rusty metal fencing and insisted on having it repainted every so often then it could work out even more expensive than wooden post-and-rail.

However, I doubt that either would meet your obligation for a 'stock-proof' fence, which usually means strained wire and sheep netting as a minimum. Whatever you decide, it would be very wise to agree the specification with the farmer - turn on your charm and you may persuade him. You've also mentioned deer in the past and, as I'm sure you know, these would need a higher than normal fence, which would probably not be too much extra compared with a standard stock-proof fence, but quite a big extra cost if done separately.

For the bits of DIY fencing I've done, I agree with FW's costs, more-or-less.

For fencing contractors, I dug out this info from 2007:

Supply & erect post and wire £3 per metre
Supply & erect post and rail £10.50 per metre
Erect customers post & rail £5 per metre
Supply & erect gate £200 per gate

These prices were also negotiable depending on the method of payment. :wink:

The 3rd option was requested after I'd bought all the posts and rails but then found that there were too many tree roots to drive the posts with a hand rammer, or rather, I could drive the posts but not get anything like a straight line with the exact spacing required so that the rails don't need cutting to size each time. The contractors used a tractor-mounted post-basher that held the post in position and could hydraulically position it very accurately, including ensuring it was dead vertical, then bash it into place. One of those instances where the right tool really did make the job so very easy - at a cost, of course.

Having said that, I've found post-and-wire fences really quite easy - just take good care to get the straining posts right. As FW rightly say, it is immensely satisfying work.

 

[Pford75]

We have estate fencing from here....
http://www.paddockfencing.com

Not cheap, but it was onl 2 sides of a 1 acre paddock and does look lovely. Will be here long after me.

 

[Penners]

You don't need a fence. You just need a sign:

 

[robgil]

If its stock fencing then posts and wire is best and most likely the cheapest, its easiest to repair and very low maintenance. It wont keep deer out though and unless they are eating your orchard why would you want to?
I bashed my forehead in with a post basher once , that was fun.

 

[JoceAndChris]

Well, the fencers of Gloucestershire ( who quoted £17,500) said that their fencing would last at least 100 years if it were kept painted and would keep sheep or horses in ( it wouldn't keep dogs out though!)

The fencers of Hull make no such claims for their fencing but only want £8,000.

This fencing is going to have an extraordinary impact on my view, I can't really explain it but those who've been here will know what I mean! The elevation of the drawing room, the narrowness of the front garden, the steep slope of the field, all contrive to make you feel you're falling into that field so whatever goes in it is going to have to be very carefully thought about.

I think the view from the house is more important than any other consideration.

I wonder if 10k of metal fencing puts 10k of value on the field?

Thanks so much for all the contributions, very helpful indeed - and FW, congratulations on all your superb postings which keep me entertained every day! Xxx

 

[JoceAndChris]

Just on the deer - I looked into keeping them and I have enough space for 3 or 4, which was all I wanted as pets. But it appears they aren't very easy pets, particularly if you want them to breed. They become dangerous at certain times of the year, and require drive-in deer crushes, whatever they are, and trained deer operatives wearing special protection. Not for the amateur smallholder, most unfortunately.

I haven't yet decided what fluffies are going in there, I'm currently very smitten by Shetland ponies.

Whatever it is, it must be

1) decorative
2) fluffy
3) not to be eaten or turned into a commercial venture

 

[Moo]

Whatever it is, it must be

1) decorative
2) fluffy
3) not to be eaten or turned into a commercial venture

and

4) able to survive outside during heat-waves and our current weather.

 

[Flyfisher]

Regarding the aesthetics, have you considered planting a mixed hedge in front of the boundary stock-proof fence, or would that block too much of the view? I think it would certainly look better than a bare fence. Then again, there would still be maintenance to consider once it is well established.

Regarding the big difference in the estate fencing costs, it's difficult to know if the two versions are a fair comparison. I could think of a number of ways that one fence could legitimately cost more than another. Still a lot of money though.

 

[robgil]

If you have to keep sheep in or out you need proper stock fencing , you would be very surprised how small a gap sheep can fit through. That metal fencing to me looks like it wouldnt hold sheep without additional wire, sheep like to rub against fencing as well and they really do love to escape, its the only two things they have got to do all day . You might also be surprised at how high a startled sheep can jump.

 

[Tom]

It wouldn't look that pretty after one of my ponies had had a go at it either. She'd bend it into all sorts of interesting shapes within a very short space of time :lol:

 

[JoceAndChris]

Hmm.

An even bigger problem that those mentioned by robgil and DWB are the dogs. I don't see how anything that isn't permanently electrified would keep them out. But it's also my understanding that it's illegal to run an electric fence alongside a public footpath.

So, I think for any kind of livestock it's going to have to be an outer fence, which isn't electrified, and an inner one, which is.

3 acres is a fair amount of space, so I'm wondering about getting enough electric fencing to make a 1.5 acre enclosure within the 3 acres and rotating this year by year.

Failing that, if anyone can think if a nice fluffy pet that repels dogs and doesn't have escapist tendencies let me know. Lions?

I wonder if a Shetland pony could graze with sheep.

 

[JoceAndChris]

Regarding the aesthetics, have you considered planting a mixed hedge in front of the boundary stock-proof fence, or would that block too much of the view? I think it would certainly look better than a bare fence. Then again, there would still be maintenance to consider once it is well established.

Regarding the big difference in the estate fencing costs, it's difficult to know if the two versions are a fair comparison. I could think of a number of ways that one fence could legitimately cost more than another. Still a lot of money though.

Realistically, your idea of the stock proof fence screened by a hedge is a good one. There's a grant available for hedging too, my neighbour has just availed himself of it.

I don't think it creates the same mood as the estate fencing but it would certainly be attractive and affordable.

The difference in the costs of the estate fencing is accounted for partly by the fact that the Gloucester company were going to erect it ( and have men staying locally in B&Bs in order to do so), whereas the Hull company's quote is for collection only, and also partly for the fact that the Gloucester company must have far higher running costs as a business, and also they were offering to pour in so much concrete that even the most wayward horse would be contained.

They told me I'd save £10 per metre if I were to paint it myself.

 

[Penners]

Jumping sheep and steel-bending ponies... do we have the makings of a PPUK Circus here?

 

[Tom]

Shetlands will graze with sheep. Better still, use rotational grazing to keep worm eggs down. However, Shetlands are notorious for being quite sharp and unruly. You'd have to make sure you buy docile ones....and not ones doped just before you buy them!!

Electric fencing alongside a footpath or bridleway is not illegal. However, you have to ensure that it doesn't intefere with people using the RoW and you need to make sure that there is enough room for people/horses to pass safely. You also need to have warning signs every so often (I forget offhand what the distance is but there is a set legal minimum).

 

[JoceAndChris]

Thanks for that Jaqy - lots to mull over then.