Float and Set - NHL 3.5

[spotpush]

Given the gist of this thread, I’d very much recommend pre-mixed.

You don’t need to go 3 coat, but really depends on the application, finish required, substrate and aesthetic desire, not to mention skills and time allocated.

I default to Eden Hotlime Nosterfield 4mm for lots of my plastering, as it’s very forgiving to work with and requires less tending due to the large aggregate size. However, it’s more of a challenge to get a smooth trowelled finish for the same reason, but feasible with some skill and patience. The other huge benefit to me, is that you can do two passes of 4mm in one go, giving and 8mm depth straight away. This obviously may not be thick enough for your needs, but for my applications as pure finishing, it’s been very helpful to just have to plaster each panel the once. Even if you’re going thicker and want a finishing top coat, this is great for scratch and float.

Suggest you probably have a detailed chat with someone from the major suspects who you’ll be purchasing from.

Not sure for all, but Eden also supply ton dumpy bags of pre mix, massively more cost effective. Although they also supply in 20kg plastic resealable tubs, which again are very useful, I like some of the others who ship in fragile plastic bags.

My initial thought is that i'll be paying a lot more for a pre-mixed version and they only do small tubs...so just out of interest how you you knock up lime putty? Is it just a question of buying non-hydraulic lime in powder form and adding water? or would you need to add sand as well?

I know but recommendations point to 10mm scratch, 10mm float and 4mm skim...I'm plastering directly onto brick and the plaster I've removed was about 25mm.

 

[Kearn]

You're right, damm! I've just AI'ed it, but it's too late I've order 6*25kg of NHL3.5 and 18*25kg of Sharp sand for the scratch coat.

Anything I can do with the NHL3.5, higher mix ration 1:5 for example? What's the best way to store it? And how long will it last?

I’d probably cancel. But if not, the only way to reduce the strength is to mix with NHL2, but at 1:1 you won’t be reducing much and still overkill. Especially if you’ve bought something other than StA, as the compressive strength values are minimums, and regularly way higher when all is said and done in a year or two.

Storage - as dry, including moist environment, and delicately as possible, the bags have a tendency to break and then moisture gets in and the lime will start to clump then totally solidify. Small clumps you can get away with for some uses, a smooth plaster and you’ll need to sieve them out to avoid lumps.

 

[Kearn]

Ok but when i knock it up it will be. If it's not a simple 1:3 kg ratio then I'll have to buy more sand...

Yes, correct. Significantly more, so factor this into your timelines for delivery etc.

 

[spotpush]

I'm back to my original question/problem. I'd need 46 bags of non-hydraulic lime/lime putty base and 10 bags of finishing, to achieve 25mm depth at a cost of £1346.86. I suspect/hope this silly pricing is because it's pre-mixed. Add in the cost of labour and you're looking at 3k to plaster a bedroom, which again is silly.

 

[Kearn]

My initial thought is that i'll be paying a lot more for a pre-mixed version and they only do small tubs...so just out of interest how you you knock up lime putty? Is it just a question of buying non-hydraulic lime in powder form and adding water? or would you need to add sand as well?

I know but recommendations point to 10mm scratch, 10mm float and 4mm skim...I'm plastering directly onto brick and the plaster I've removed was about 25mm.

Yep, then you’ll need to go that route to build the thickness.

As I said in the quoted message, many suppliers will deliver in ton dumpy bags, which is more cost effective.

 

[a twig]

The discussions on what mixes and lime products to use where, how to make your own lime putty from hydrated lime etc has been done to death on this forum over the 20 odd years it has been in existence - you can find plenty of answers on the best way to proceed by using the search function and having a read through some of the threads that come up.

With the greatest respect it feels like you are charging a bit headlong into this and will potentially end up spending your hard earned on sub optimal solutions.

It’s honestly worth taking the time to get acquainted with the subject matter - the Old House Handbook: A Practical Guide to Care and Repair, 2nd Edition by Marianne Suhr and Roger Hunt is a good and accessible starting off point to all things period property maintenance and restoration

 

[spotpush]

The discussions on what mixes and lime products to use where, how to make your own lime putty from hydrated lime etc has been done to death on this forum over the 20 odd years it has been in existence - you can find plenty of answers on the best way to proceed by using the search function and having a read through some of the threads that come up.

With the greatest respect it feels like you are charging a bit headlong into this and will potentially end up spending your hard earned on sub optimal solutions.

It’s honestly worth taking the time to get acquainted with the subject matter - the Old House Handbook: A Practical Guide to Care and Repair, 2nd Edition by Marianne Suhr and Roger Hunt is a good and accessible starting off point to all things period property maintenance and restoration

I know and it's littered with differing opinions from all angles and situations making it impossible to know what to do for the best so I find it more effect to ask direct questions relating to my situation and ignore all the noise.

With that said, I've cancelled the NHL 3.5 order, even though I could have still used it to re-point external walls and ordered a premix, baselime, non-hydraulic-lime from Ty-Mawr.

 

[Kearn]

I know and it's littered with differing opinions from all angles and situations making it impossible to know what to do for the best so I find it more effect to ask direct questions relating to my situation and ignore all the noise.

With that said, I've cancelled the NHL 3.5 order, even though I could have still used it to re-point external walls and ordered a premix, baselime, non-hydraulic-lime from Ty-Mawr.

Best talking to the horses mouth if you have specific questions about their products and appropriate applications.

For what it’s worth, NHL3.5 should not be used for repointing soft bricks - it will be far harder than the brick faces and result in spalling through the freeze thaw cycle.
If you had a medium to hard stone wall to build/point, or a floor slab, then yes you could have still used it.

Nigel’s pricing is reasonably premium, worth considering for your next purchase. And their plastic bags are notoriously good at springing leaks, so careful with unloading, storing and shifting them, plus check them off the pallet when they turn up.

 

[spotpush]

Best talking to the horses mouth if you have specific questions about their products and appropriate applications.

For what it’s worth, NHL3.5 should not be used for repointing soft bricks - it will be far harder than the brick faces and result in spalling through the freeze thaw cycle.
If you had a medium to hard stone wall to build/point, or a floor slab, then yes you could have still used it.

Nigel’s pricing is reasonably premium, worth considering for your next purchase. And their plastic bags are notoriously good at springing leaks, so careful with unloading, storing and shifting them, plus check them off the pallet when they turn up.

I don't necessarily. I'd rather ask my own questions about my situation even if it's been "done to death" previously.

I get the impression you don't recommend/like NHL at all, which is fine but how do you know I don't have hard bricks? Whats a soft brick? And if I do have soft bricks what would you suggest and why?

Who's Nigel?