lime mortar and limewash questions

[TOV1]

Ok I have been through the forum and just wanted to check my plan of action for our new-to-us house. Part of these old Victorian stables had been previously sandblasted and taken back to brick. They are staying unheated and will be used as a workshop I have bought a breathable brick dust sealer from Floorseal but now concerned this may the wrong approach, likewise a ready mixed mortar to fill in any holes in the brickwork. Am I right in thinking that the best approach now would be to make a limestone mortar to make any repairs etc and then use a limewash to manage brick dust etc. Can I use the same bag of lime to make both the mortar and the limewash ie if I go for something like the blue circle hydrated lime or do I need different ones for each? I understand mortar can just be lime and sharp sand mix, no need for cement? And finally for the limewash, do I need to leave it to sit for a couple of weeks before using it? Thanks if advance, I realise there's a lot of questions but I am keen not to make the situation any worse!


Am I right in thinking that the best approach now would be to make a limestone mortar to make any repairs etc and then use a limewash to reseal the walls

 

[Kearn]

Such a shame they’ve been blasted, the fire skins will have now gone hence the dusting… I don’t see much in the way of major repairs form the pics which is good.

Your original plan would have been terrible, no such things as a breathable sealer. You would have trapped moisture in the walls, keeping them damp and making the space colder. Cement is also not appropriate.

Blue circle is really a cement brand, not what you need.

Best bet is a tub of mature putty, which you can mix with appropriate sand to fill any gaps, or if you have a decent amount to fill in, then a premixed lime mortar with a decent sized aggregate.
The tub of lime putty is used to make limewash, ratio of at least 1:3 putty to water, consistency of milk, then it will be at least 3 coats, 1 per day. If it’s too thick, it won’t bond with the wall and you’ll have a crazed finish when dry and it will flake off. The putty is already mature when you get it, so no waiting, and you’ll be amazed how far putty goes, so keep what’s left of the putty and limewash in sealed tubs until you next need it

It’s a messy job, you need a good stiff short bristled brush, not more than 4-5” wide really, as you need to use decent pressure when applying and you don’t want a massively loaded long bristled brush as it will hit the floor before the wall.
Work quickly in figures of 8, don’t overwork the applied sections or take too much care. It won’t look much on application, so be methodical in terms of where you’ve covered but once it dries, the white opacity will come through. 1 coat per day, as it needs to cure.

ppe, especially goggles and protection for the floor.

Depending on your location, you may be able to pick up putty and premix directly, otherwise it’s shipping. Check the usual suspects like Cornish Lime, Eden Hotlime, Ty Mwar, Mike Wye and a host of other local options…

 

[LadyArowana]

Limewash is magic. Even I can do it. But definitely eye protection, rubber gloves and a shower cap, not elegant attire. It could do with a bit more work, butneeded to use the space, so further attention can wait until later in the year. Mike Wye Wyetish Limewash

 

[a twig]

Limewash is magic. Even I can do it. But definitely eye protection, rubber gloves and a shower cap, not elegant attire. It could do with a bit more work, butneeded to use the space, so further attention can wait until later in the year. Mike Wye Wyetish Limewash

View attachment 19365

View attachment 19366

That’s a very austere dining room refurbishment!

I once spent a couple of nights in a Victorian era prison with very similar styling cues

 

[Mulder]

When you say Limewash, that will turn your walls bright white. It's not equivalent to a brick sealer, more like paint (but breathable and can be good to stop mold). It's a permanent change so you'll never get those nice red bricks back. Is that what you were intending to do?

As for mortar, there is a lot to learn about the different types of lime and how to mix correct mortars. If you have a lot of work to do on your house, it would be a good time investment to learn about lime in more detail. Sadly it's a lot more complex than Just using a bag of Hydrated lime instead of cement, but once you know, you can keep any tradesmen on their toes incase they try and pull a fast one on you when doing other jobs.

If it all sounds too much, a tub of ready mixed lime mortar from a local ( often not that local) lime supplier would do you for those small repairs.

Where are you based?

 

[a twig]

Sadly it's a lot more complex than Just using a bag of Hydrated lime instead of cement,

At the risk of being contrary - it isn’t particularly, at its most basic a 2 or 3 sand : 1 hydrated lime mortar mixed up and left in a bucket for a couple of days before applying is to all intents and purposes the same as a lime putty or “air lime” mortar.

Likewise it’s easy enough to tint a limewash with pigment if you don’t want the brilliant white, and when mixed correctly it’s fairly translucent hence usually taking 4 or 5 applications if you want an opaque finish

 

[a twig]

There’s a lot of people making a lot of money by making “heritage” construction sound horrendously complicated in order to justify a premium price or a range of specialist products.

In a period world pre-dating modern quality control standards in manufacturing and global supply chains, people built with whatever regional variation of materials was available locally. Slaked lime made from quicklime from a local kiln would invariably have hydraulic properties or pozzolans given the inconsistencies and contamination in the kiln firing process etc

Sorry getting a bit ranty here but my general takeaway is not to over complicate things too much when it comes to lime and old buildings

 

[Kearn]

When you say Limewash, that will turn your walls bright white. It's not equivalent to a brick sealer, more like paint (but breathable and can be good to stop mold). It's a permanent change so you'll never get those nice red bricks back. Is that what you were intending to do?

As for mortar, there is a lot to learn about the different types of lime and how to mix correct mortars. If you have a lot of work to do on your house, it would be a good time investment to learn about lime in more detail. Sadly it's a lot more complex than Just using a bag of Hydrated lime instead of cement, but once you know, you can keep any tradesmen on their toes incase they try and pull a fast one on you when doing other jobs.

If it all sounds too much, a tub of ready mixed lime mortar from a local ( often not that local) lime supplier would do you for those small repairs.

Where are you based?

Those bricks are now unfortunately almost certainly shot due to the blasting, so leaving them exposed with no fire skin isn’t sensible. A stable would have been limewashed internally anyway, so perfectly appropriate to reinstate.