Lowering External Ground Level & Plastering

[Rutlandcottage]

Hi all, I am seeking advice in a few areas for our limestone 18th century cottage.

1) Should we remove existing non lime plaster from damp impacted walls? Attached photos (With Red A on). We are planning in a few months time to replaster in lime, would stripping back in the meantime allow the wall to dry faster?

2) We seem to have a very shallow trench or splash strip around the house, what would be the best way to lower the external ground level in areas where it is higher than the internal level? A ZebColm trench? The external ground level is highest where the damp is most present although the most impacted area is mainly along the internal party with our neighbours property (Red A photos), and where issue 3 is below.

3) How do you identify if there is a soak away in place? Attached an image where a rear downpipe seems to just go straight into the soil. The wall has damp issues on the inside, but that’s been exasperated by vegetation which was growing against the wall which we’ve removed and a broken coping section on the roof that was allowing water in which we are having roofers work on at the moment. (blue B photos). Also any suggestions on what to do with this area? Replace the soil with gravel or a trench and lower?

At some point the whole house has been pointed in concrete externally which we’re planning to repoint in lime once we can afford it. We’re hoping that by doing the internal walls in lime and lowering the external ground level we can start to address the issues. We’re also planning to reopen a fireplace that has been completely bricked up and plastered over in the same room as the red A photos will help increase ventilation also.

Any questions please let me know or any other ideas are greatly appreciated!

 

[paulc]

3) How do you identify if there is a soak away in place? Attached an image where a rear downpipe seems to just go straight into the soil. The wall has damp issues on the inside, but that’s been exasperated by vegetation which was growing against the wall which we’ve removed and a broken coping section on the roof that was allowing water in which we are having roofers work on at the moment. (blue B photos).

Dig down until you find the underground drainage pipe. Hopefully, it will either be a clay pipe or a more modern plastic one. Disconnect the downpipe, and then shove a camera down to see what is at the end. Before you reconnect the downpipe, do give some thought to fitting a debris interceptor at the base. At £24 a pop, they are not particularly cheap, but you do get a handy point to shove a drain snake down if it is ever required. Would be better in conjunction with a rodding eye, but that makes for more expense. At least with a debris interceptor, you get to trap all the moss & leaves before they go clogging up a soakaway - That's assuming you have one. Some downpipes feed in to the foul water waste, so you could lift a manhole and tip water in to the gutter ad see if it flows in to the inspection chamber. If the water doesn't go that way, you can get a discount off your water bill as a result.