Sealing gaps in old walls

[Cubist]

That implies that the gaps have opened in both the interior and exterior seams where the plaster or render typically meets the timbers of the frame. In the worst cases driven rain can be forced through these gaps Fromm outdoors to do considerable damage to the interior. Externally you will need to use either oakum or caulking cotton hammered into the seam and the seam finally closed with a fillet of lime mortar. It's not wise to use oakum internally as some of its oil content will bleed into both the plaster and wood of the timber to produce unsightly stains. Caulking cotton or stranded sheeps-wool (if you can get it) should be used internally and the final closure achieved with a lime based filler.

It's vital that you closely examine ALL the exterior seams between the infill panels and the frame. Driven rainwater can track quite amazing distances along and down the frame members to appear indoors later or worse, become trapped in the mortice and tenon joints near the foot/cill/sole plates of the frame to produce huge damage later. You need to get on a ladder and get cracking before the weather turns later this year. Good luck.

 

[Kearn]

Yes to closing then to spiders! At least the big ones …. How would I do that (the house has enough character without these )

The spiders will simply live somewhere else!

There’s zero point in attempting to fill shakes, it will look terrible. And getting whatever muck out in the future will be near impossible for the next custodian. Shakes are part of a timber frame.

 

[Whatwerewethinking]

Was some errant quote tags - have fixed so question should be visible now

Thank you…..

 

[Whatwerewethinking]

That implies that the gaps have opened in both the interior and exterior seams where the plaster or render typically meets the timbers of the frame. In the worst cases driven rain can be forced through these gaps Fromm outdoors to do considerable damage to the interior. Externally you will need to use either oakum or caulking cotton hammered into the seam and the seam finally closed with a fillet of lime mortar. It's not wise to use oakum internally as some of its oil content will bleed into both the plaster and wood of the timber to produce unsightly stains. Caulking cotton or stranded sheeps-wool (if you can get it) should be used internally and the final closure achieved with a lime based filler.

It's vital that you closely examine ALL the exterior seams between the infill panels and the frame. Driven rainwater can track quite amazing distances along and down the frame members to appear indoors later or worse, become trapped in the mortice and tenon joints near the foot/cill/sole plates of the frame to produce huge damage later. You need to get on a ladder and get cracking before the weather turns later this year. Good luck.

Thank you for your detailed reply - very helpful & much appreciated. Do you think this is in the realms of DIY or should we look for a specialist? Thanks.

 

[Cubist]

Thank you for your detailed reply - very helpful & much appreciated. Do you think this is in the realms of DIY or should we look for a specialist? Thanks.

Yes. I did just that for the entire house here - while correcting much of the abortive work done by others using completely inappropriate materials.

The tools needed are very simple and easily come by and the materials are cheap as chips. Biggest issue is reaching some of the higher parts of the building but I used a tower scaffold rather than trying to balance on a ladder

 

[Cubist]

Just another of my afterthoughts - timber frame houses/buildings tend to move more than other structures so its wise to periodically inspect the seams between the timbers and infill panels, all the pegs to make sure they are tightly seated and that joint lines between the timbers are tight and theres no opportunity for water to get to the tenon blades and mortice sockets.