Lime plaster should never be sanded. It’ll bring all the aggregate to the surface and deteriorate the structure. Finish coat needs to be trowel finished, if smooth is your goal, or the easier option post trowelling is a light sponge float and re-trowel to give a bit more texture and hide inaccuracies with the trowel alone. Also gives a bit of key for limewash.
- Thread starter my_name_is_slim_daisy
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lizziecupcakes
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What’s liquid movement?
The very thing wet walls need to be able to accommodate, the removal of water through surface evaporation.
All the SD values are created with inaccurate tests under unrealistic conditions, for the transmission of water in vapour form.
The other thing many of the manufacturers do, is reference ‘breathable’ as if it has a specific meaning. Often they mean, the fumes are non an issue for humans…
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my_name_is_slim_daisy
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Thanks @Kearn for the helpful response. I didn’t know about the sponge trick. Would that work if skimming with Toupret?
I’d assumed you were skimming in lime. But all the products you list are modern non breathable and not really appropriate for a solid wall, lime structure.
Hate to say it, but I’d reconsider the whole approach …limewash stabilises brilliantly and will bind it all together (even if patched in small doses with a polyfilla or similar) including smoothing out gaps and ridges etc. then you have a decent enough base surface to either distemper/leave with pigmented limewash, or use a traditional adhesive with lining paper and paint what you please, as the underlying lime is protected.
Hate to say it, but I’d reconsider the whole approach …limewash stabilises brilliantly and will bind it all together (even if patched in small doses with a polyfilla or similar) including smoothing out gaps and ridges etc. then you have a decent enough base surface to either distemper/leave with pigmented limewash, or use a traditional adhesive with lining paper and paint what you please, as the underlying lime is protected.