Stopcock - isolation valve leak

[lizziecupcakes]

Hi all

I seem to have an “olden days” looking stopcock inside the property, under the staircase. This actually turns the water on/off to the upstairs bathroom only, while the one outside in the public pavement area turns the water on/off to the entire property. I don’t know if this setup is normal, but this is what we have.

Recently we changed the bathroom sink tap ourselves (all went well and it was fairly straight forward - just changed the tap and tails). In doing this work, we shut off the stopcock inside the property to the bathroom.

It was a tiny bit stiff but it loosened fairly easily and we’ve been able to turn it on/off fine. only problem is….

In the past two days, we noticed the stopcock drip a tiny bit now (slow and rhythmically) from the knuckle/nut/bolt part right at the front (no idea what it’s called) . this dripping occurs when it’s in the “on” position. I’ve attached a photo, mid-drip.

The pipe itself looks fine and no drips appear from the valve behind the blue handle part that’s connecting the two pipes (above and below)

We called a few plumbers and they said no matter the job, they charge £120 upfront (?!?) for the first hour - is this normal?

Anyway, we wondered if anyone has had this problem before and if we can just fix it ourselves? We thought maybe it needs tightening?

Major problem is that it’s right next to our consumer unit (electrics), so we’re a bit worried about that.

If tightening it doesn’t work, we were going to bring the plumber in. But just thought we’d give it a go first. Or should we not attempt this at all?

Thank you

 

[a twig]

Yep try tightening the nut on the handle - as you tighten it the handle will get harder to turn though so obviously there is a limit to how much you can tighten it.

If that doesn’t stop the leak then the valve will need replacing - probably a 20 minute job for a plumber if you aren’t confident doing it yourself.

 

[a twig]

Just FYI there’s nothing olden days about one of those lever ball valves they are definitely modern!

Older ones have a tap style handle

 

[lizziecupcakes]

Thank you!
Do I need to remove the hexagonal nut at the front and lift off the blue handle, and then tighten the nut the handle normally sits in? (i saw this in youtube)?

Or just tighten the hexagonal nut right at the front? *scratching our head*

 

[lizziecupcakes]

Just FYI there’s nothing olden days about one of those lever ball valves they are definitely modern!

Older ones have a tap style handle

Ooooh, I thought the taps were better!! So “modern”. Lol. Thanks for the info

 

[a twig]

Thank you!
Do I need to remove the hexagonal nut at the front and lift off the blue handle, and then tighten the nut the handle normally sits in? (i saw this in youtube)?

Or just tighten the hexagonal nut right at the front? *scratching our head*

Yep the packing nut should be under the handle assuming there is one

 

[Cubist]

DO NOT remove the handle or the nuts holding it in place - you risk flooding the house.

Thats not a stop cock. It's an in-line isolation valve. Performs a similar function but in a very different way. The leak you have is either due to a complete failure of the internals of the valve OR due to a water getting past the olive seal beneath the uppermost large nut.

 

[a twig]

Although some cheaper models won’t have one…

 

[a twig]

Ha Cubist got in before my caveat

 

[a twig]

You should be able to see from the left hand side if there is one under the handle - if there isn’t then leave it all to the plumber if you aren’t happy replacing it all yourself

 

[lizziecupcakes]

DO NOT remove the handle or the nuts holding it in place - you risk flooding the house.

Thats not a stop cock. It's an in-line isolation valve. Performs a similar function but in a very different way. The leak you have is either due to a complete failure of the internals of the valve OR due to a water getting past the olive seal beneath the uppermost large nut.

Ah ok!
I think we will leave it then with the plumber as we don’t know what we’re doing in this case.

Thank you!!

 

[Cubist]

Before doing anything else check to see if the water is first appearing at the top of the uppermost large nut where it meets the pipe. Then check the bottom edge of the same nut where it connects to the body of the valve. If you find water at either end that suggests the seal around the internal olive has been broken/compromised. This may be possible to fix with just a pair of grips and a suitable spanner.

It's also possible that the leak is from around the large nut at the bottom and water under pressure is being pushed out of its edge nearest the valve body. Check this too in the same was as above.

BUT

If there you can find no water in those two locations the valve is shot and is best replaced - the whole water system will need to be shut down at the external stop-cock and the system drained.
Call a plumber if you're not comfortable doing that.

 

[lizziecupcakes]

Thanks @Cubist .
We’ll call a plumber tomorrow since it’s late now.
I’ll check this as soon as I’m home. Should we shut off the water?

 

[Cubist]

For now wrap a long cotton/fabric cloth around the the base of the valve and hang the loose end in a bucket - that will reduce/stop any water getting to the floor below.

No need to shut off the water if its only a few spots but if you're worried turn it off before going to bed.

 

[lizziecupcakes]

For now wrap a long cotton/fabric cloth around the the base of the valve and hang the loose end in a bucket - that will reduce/stop any water getting to the floor below.

No need to shut off the water if its only a few spots but if you're worried turn it off before going to bed.

It’s a drip every 10seconds. Not worsened or gotten better

 

[my_name_is_slim_daisy]

From my experience lever valves shouldn’t be repaired - you’re best off replacing it. In the past I was quoted around £130 for parts and labour. Seemed a bit steep but I’m not sure if this is the going rate for London. Also they may ask you to pay up front