What is this called?

[livias]

I want to join two pieces of oak in such a way that they can be easily separated when required and to do this I need a pair of metal screws, male and female, with a ?flange? on the back end which I can drive into the piece of oak. As it is oak, the contraption will need to be stainless steel

This is how I imagine it ...



Does anyone know what this is called and where I can buy it?

 

[Me!]

I'm not sure if this is close enough for what you want, but you could put a drop-in sleeve anchor in both parts and then a length of the studding between them -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-STAIN...4e6f0060:m:mOJ-SoBFCa8vN3Jvbjyg5mA:rk:27:pf:0

 

[CliffordPope]

You'd have to glue them in surely? They must be intented for masonry, which can withstand the force necessary to expand them. Wood might split, and the insert would become loose when you unscrewed the rod?

Is the wood round or square section - is alignment important?

 

[noj]

Search 'threaded insert nut' - drill a hole in each piece, screw an insert into each bit, join the two with a bit of threaded bar...

Then start again because thety don't line up, good luck!

Didn't search for stainless, but there are plenty either plated or brass

 

[steveb]

something used to extend newel posts may work:

https://www.woodstairs.com/how-to-install-a-floor-level-newel-post/


https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mounting-L-J-Smith-Stair-Systems/dp/B01NCAY2KM

That long threaded bolt I guess you screw the lower half into the lower part of the post , then drill a hole in the top and screw the top half of the post into it. A lot will also depend on how string this needs to be..

 

[MikeG]

How do you expect to get a spanner to the necessary part to tighten or loosen the joint?

 

[Kearn]

If I understand your scribble correctly, I'm assuming that the final alignment of the two pieces of oak isn't important and that to join/separate you will be rotating one or both the pieces?

Coincidentally, I need to do something similar, but where both of the above assumptions aren't true!

Now I'm intrigued...

 

[livias]

>Is the wood round or square section
Still at the design phase so either is possible but ideally one side square and one side round

>is alignment important?
Yes

>something used to extend newel posts may work
Very true ... as what I want to do is to extend a newel post
I will consider that and the other links THANKS! because yes something along these lines will be suitable

>How do you expect to get a spanner to the necessary part to tighten or loosen the joint?
I will do it by hand - the top bit is basically a knob

Here is a picture of what I plan, totally not to scale and I hope it makes sense to you all :mrgreen: The banister rail needs to be dismountable and having an unscrewable 'hollow' newel post top seems like the simplest way to achieve this. The proportions and the dotted line of the banister rail inside the newel post are fantasy as I have not thought carefully about those parts yet ...

Comments welcome

 

[Cubist]

Hi Livias,

I think this might be what you need to do the job. They are readily available from most good hardware stores e.g. Screw fix and come in various sizes and pocket change prices.



Whatever method you ultimately use you will have to be careful to centre the screw in both pieces and ensure they are plumb to ensure a good tight fit.

I'm assuming you simply want to enhance the appearance, and increase the height, of an existing newel post? If not, have you considered maybe using 'off the shelf' stair parts? The outfit below, many similar around, provide a wide range of designs and their prices seem reasonable.

https://stairpartsdirect.co.uk/

Cheers,
Cubist

 

[Feltwell]

Does it really have to be stainless, for internal use? Limits your choice somewhat.

If you were worried about the thread on Cubist's suggestion going loose in the wood after a few on and off's, then how about putting a threaded insert into the timber, top and bottom - M10 is quite chunky:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-M5-M6...ae1ef5e4c:m:muBI5Lf5R8r2Xdnbc_ZojRA:rk:3:pf:0

A bit of M10 threaded bar cut to size and held in to the top section with some threadlock, and the whole top becomes the bit you screw into the base.


I presume this whole lot is to be demountable to enable furniture to go up and downstairs on occasions? Of course you could go for the period approach - a "coffin drop"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Churche's_Mansion

 

[Cubist]

Sorry, I forgot to ask - why does the newel cap need to be hollow?

I think you would be hard pressed to find one on the open market and you would need a very good wood turner to make one.

 

[livias]

Cubist: I think this might be what you need to do the job
No I need a male and female in stainless. It could easily go for years without being unscrewed and it must not seize up in the interim

>https://stairpartsdirect.co.uk/
Their products are not a patch on the designer staircase which I have in mind to make :lol:

The newel cap does not have to be hollow and I might design out the hollow bit ... we will see ... I have made a hollow oak newel post before, carved by my own fair hand so I know it is possible. Apart from giving the staircase the Tudor cum ArtsnCrafts look which I want, it means that the 'knob' does not fall naturally into the hand as one rounds the newel post, so getting undone on a regular basis. I expect that there are other options though so I will give it more thought

Feltwell: Does it really have to be stainless, for internal use? Limits your choice somewhat.
Yes, because it is into oak. The tannin in the oak will eat away at unstainless steel
It looks as though a threaded insert is the way to go. A pity really because I was dreaming of something a bit longer and more designer :shock:
I will go and look to see if extra long threaded inserts are available

 

[Abi Cott]

When you've done yours could you come and design mine? I've got a wobbly banister that is cobbled together from odds and sods badly bracketed to a cut off newel post

 

[CliffordPope]

Why does it need to be removable?
If you had just bought the house and it had a one-piece wooden post of exactly the dimensions you propose, would you feel the need to saw it off?

 

[livias]

Abi Cott: Aha! I see a new career backoning :lol:

CliffordPope: I would not be able to get the bed, wardrobe, chest of drawers etc up the stairs so yes I would need to dismantle the banister rail if I bought the house with the new staircase insitu.
The advantages of the new stairs over the current ones is that they will be building regs compliant on headroom and they will be beautiful
Unlike the current ones which are cheap 1950s pine, have 1500mm headroom and are pig ugly. However, they do allow for furniture removals

 

[paulc]

No I need a male and female in stainless. It could easily go for years without being unscrewed and it must not seize up in the interim

Stainless steel can occasionally gall (a form of cold welding), and when this happens, it is near impossible to get the parts apart. That said, in your application, galling is unlikely to happen as long as you use a large enough thread - I'd go for M12 over M10, but certainly nothing smaller.

 

[Feltwell]

I think I'd be tempted to put a bit of copper grease - aka anti-seize compound - on the thread.

 

[a twig]

I think I'd be tempted to put a bit of copper grease - aka anti-seize compound - on the thread.

Defo this, copaslip or similar. Brilliant stuff, also brilliant as a long term lubricant for door hinges, my cottage doors are spookily silent now

 

[livias]

PaulC: Thanks, I didn't know about galling. I have found an M20 thread which looks like it will do the job
https://shop4fasteners.co.uk/fasteners/threaded-inserts/blind-self-tapping-threaded-inserts-marine-grade-a4-stainless-steel.html

a Twig and Feltwell: I will do that too. Thanks

 

[Flyfisher]

I think I'd be tempted to put a bit of copper grease - aka anti-seize compound - on the thread.

Defo this, copaslip or similar. Brilliant stuff, also brilliant as a long term lubricant for door hinges, my cottage doors are spookily silent now

Yes, copaslip is certainly good stuff for anti-seize applications and I have no doubt it would also silence squeaky door hinges. However, a number of our internal doors have their own characteristic ‘squeaks and creaks’ that I find strangely reassuring. Maybe it’s just me? :?